Pattern notes for my Denim Headscarf
As requested, here are the pattern notes for the denim headscarf.
I used a denim yarn which shrinks in the first wash (Sirdar Indigo) but you could easily use a standard, non shrinking yarn.
You could use any yarn weight desired, with the appropriate needles. I used 4mm needles with my DK yarn. It is listed that I needed two balls of yarn, this is true but if I had been doing the edging in the same colour as the main headscarf I would've got away with one.
Firstly, decide if you are going to put on an edging. If you are not doing an edging, you would be advised to keep the edge three stitches on each side in garter stitch, to slightly tame the curling. If you are doing an edging you could proceed as I did.
Cast on three stitches.
1: k1 yo k1 yo k1
2: purl across
3: k2 yo k1 yo k2
4: purl across
Mark off your centre stitch in some way. I used one of the little padlock-style markers but you could just as easily just use a short length of contrasting yarn slipped through the eyelet holes. Move the marker up every few rows.
Proceed as set, knitting to the centre stitch yo k centre stitch yo knit across on right side rows and purling back on wrong side rows. You will soon find your work forming into a kite shape.
If you are doing the edging you may wish to consider slipping every first stitch because later some stitches will be picked up and knitted. I didn't though.
Try the headscarf on and when the ends are about three inches shy of meeting under your head you can start making the ties. This is a matter of taste. You can start the ties sooner for less coverage but I wouldn't start them much later than this or it may cause too much bulk under the head. I stopped increasing when I had 83 stitches, but don't forget I was using a yarn designed to shrink, and I have a large head.
With the right side facing cast on some stitches at the beginning of the next row. In my yarn I cast on about 25sts to make the ties. Knit across your new stitches and the headscarf top.With the wrong side facing cast on some stitches at the beginning of the next row. KNIT across your new stitches, the headscarf top and the other new stitches. Knit one row. Cast off knitwise.
Using your edging yarn and a circular needle or some dpns, pick up and knit 3 stitches for every four rows along the two long diagonal sides. Be generous when picking up the stitches at the pointed tip. Work back and forth in stocking stitch until four rows total have been done on the diagonal edges. As you get to each edge work the edge stitch together with the tie stitch to join the pieces together.
With the right side facing begin the picot cast off. Cast off four stitches. Cast on two then immediately cast them off again, making a little peak. Continue in this way making sure a little peak coincides with the pointed tip of the main scarf. You may have to fudge the numbers a little to make this happen.
Because my yarn required a hot machine wash to set off its shrinking process I did not weave in the ends or sew on the decorative mother-of-pearl buttons until after washing and blocking. If you are hand-washing a non-shrink yarn you can decide if and when to add buttons and weave in ends.
I used a denim yarn which shrinks in the first wash (Sirdar Indigo) but you could easily use a standard, non shrinking yarn.
You could use any yarn weight desired, with the appropriate needles. I used 4mm needles with my DK yarn. It is listed that I needed two balls of yarn, this is true but if I had been doing the edging in the same colour as the main headscarf I would've got away with one.
Firstly, decide if you are going to put on an edging. If you are not doing an edging, you would be advised to keep the edge three stitches on each side in garter stitch, to slightly tame the curling. If you are doing an edging you could proceed as I did.
Cast on three stitches.
1: k1 yo k1 yo k1
2: purl across
3: k2 yo k1 yo k2
4: purl across
Mark off your centre stitch in some way. I used one of the little padlock-style markers but you could just as easily just use a short length of contrasting yarn slipped through the eyelet holes. Move the marker up every few rows.
Proceed as set, knitting to the centre stitch yo k centre stitch yo knit across on right side rows and purling back on wrong side rows. You will soon find your work forming into a kite shape.
If you are doing the edging you may wish to consider slipping every first stitch because later some stitches will be picked up and knitted. I didn't though.
Try the headscarf on and when the ends are about three inches shy of meeting under your head you can start making the ties. This is a matter of taste. You can start the ties sooner for less coverage but I wouldn't start them much later than this or it may cause too much bulk under the head. I stopped increasing when I had 83 stitches, but don't forget I was using a yarn designed to shrink, and I have a large head.
With the right side facing cast on some stitches at the beginning of the next row. In my yarn I cast on about 25sts to make the ties. Knit across your new stitches and the headscarf top.With the wrong side facing cast on some stitches at the beginning of the next row. KNIT across your new stitches, the headscarf top and the other new stitches. Knit one row. Cast off knitwise.
Using your edging yarn and a circular needle or some dpns, pick up and knit 3 stitches for every four rows along the two long diagonal sides. Be generous when picking up the stitches at the pointed tip. Work back and forth in stocking stitch until four rows total have been done on the diagonal edges. As you get to each edge work the edge stitch together with the tie stitch to join the pieces together.
With the right side facing begin the picot cast off. Cast off four stitches. Cast on two then immediately cast them off again, making a little peak. Continue in this way making sure a little peak coincides with the pointed tip of the main scarf. You may have to fudge the numbers a little to make this happen.
Because my yarn required a hot machine wash to set off its shrinking process I did not weave in the ends or sew on the decorative mother-of-pearl buttons until after washing and blocking. If you are hand-washing a non-shrink yarn you can decide if and when to add buttons and weave in ends.